Champagne Highlights: Reims, Épernay, and the Vineyards Between

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Champagne is one of those regions we keep going back to. It’s easy to get to, good in every season, and full of the kind of days we love. Long vineyard drives, cellar tours, and early afternoon bubbles.

We’ve used Reims as our base more than once and explored Épernay, Hautvillers, and a few towns in between. We’ve stayed in everything from city apartments to country Airbnbs, visited the big-name champagne houses, and found a few surprises along the way.

Here’s what we saw, drank, and think you shouldn’t miss.

Reims

Reims (rhymes with France, but without the “f”) is our go-to. It’s a proper city with restaurants, shops, parks, and cathedral bells in the background. We’ve stayed here more than anywhere else in the region. It’s easy, central, and walkable once you park the car.

We toured Veuve Clicquot, Pommery, and visited Ruinart. We didn’t do the tour there, but we still loved the space. Each one felt different. Pommery was bold and blue. Veuve was sleek. Ruinart felt low-key in the best way. A winemaker in Beaune once told us about Ruinart, “This is what the French actually drink.” He was right.

Reims Cathedral was worth the visit. Huge, quiet, and full of stained glass. It felt more peaceful than the ones in Paris or Strasbourg. Afterward, we walked through the park along the river, which was full of locals and really beautiful in the late afternoon.

We also stopped at the Musée de la Reddition, a small museum in a former school where the Germans signed the surrender in WWII. It’s quiet and powerful, with the original war room still intact.

Reims also had some great antique shops. We stumbled across a few tucked between cafés and wine stores and could’ve spent an entire day digging through them.

Épernay

Épernay is all about Avenue de Champagne. It’s lined with famous champagne houses, and you can book tastings back to back without needing a car. We toured Mercier, which started in an elevator with a theatrical intro video and took us through the history and production. Followed by my favorite, a train ride through the caves. The tasting was upstairs in a bright, modern space.

It’s smaller than Reims, and things were quieter when we visited, especially on Sundays when almost everything was closed. But it’s a solid day trip and a good stop for anyone who wants to walk and sip instead of drive.

Hautvillers

We’ve only been once, but we’d go back in a heartbeat. Hautvillers is where Dom Pérignon is buried. There’s a small abbey in the center of the village, surrounded by vines and postcard views.

We hiked through the vineyards and up into a nearby forest. It was quiet and green, and we barely saw anyone else. We also visited a small independent winemaker, which ended up being one of our favorite stops. No big signs or branding, just bottles and conversation.

There aren’t a lot of shops or restaurants, but that’s what we liked about it. You come here to slow down.

Know Before You Go

Where is Champagne?
Champagne is in northeastern France, about 90 minutes by train from Paris. The region is anchored by the towns of Reims and Épernay, with smaller villages and vineyards spread across the countryside.

Do you need a car?
Yes. You can get away without one if you’re staying only in Reims or Épernay, but to visit places like Hautvillers or independent winemakers, a rental car makes everything easier.

When to visit:
Late spring and early fall are ideal. We’ve visited in May and October and had great weather both times. Harvest season in September is festive but more crowded. Summer can be quiet, and some restaurants and shops may close midweek.

Is it dog-friendly?
Sort of. Airbnbs were pet-friendly, and the towns are easy to walk, but champagne houses don’t allow dogs inside. It’s manageable with a dog, but not a trip built around bringing one.

Where to stay:

  • Reims for a walkable base with food, shops, and antique stores
  • Épernay if you want tastings right outside your door
  • Hautvillers for vineyard views and a slower pace
  • Anywhere with parking if you’re planning to drive between towns

What to drink:

  • Veuve Clicquot
  • Pommery
  • Mercier
  • Ruinart
  • Anything from a small wine shop you’ve never heard of

Planning more time in France?
Check out our other favorite regions:

Autumn in Burgandy – Fall colors, good wine, and the best boeuf bourguignon
Madame Clicquot’s Story – Champagne’s boldest widow, historic risks, and a legacy in every bottle
Visiting Alsace – Colorful villages, wine country drives, and the perfect mix of French and German charm
Paris wih Teens – big museums, late dinners, and skipping the Eiffel crowds

Or listen to The Getawayz Podcast for more behind-the-scenes stories from our European travels.