Three Cliffs Bay: Is Swansea’s Gower Coast Worth the Drive?
This whole day started with a TV show. Lisa, our friend Katie and I had all been watching Bad Sisters, where the sisters are wild swimmers. They get in the freezing sea and then wrap themselves in these enormous robes, waterproof on the outside with a soft lining. The test for whether one fits is whether you can change your clothes inside it.
Katie decided she was not leaving the UK without one. So on our way to Three Cliffs Bay, we stopped in Swansea to track one down. We found it. It was expensive. Robe secured, we drove out onto the Gower Peninsula, and it turned into the best morning of our whole Wales trip.
The next day Lisa walked into a Primark and found basically the same robe for £19.99.
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Three Cliffs Bay at a Glance
- Where: the south coast of the Gower Peninsula, west of Swansea
- From Cardiff: a little over an hour by car
- From Swansea: about 25 minutes
- The walk: cliff paths and a hike down to the beach, a few hours with stops
- Dogs: allowed on the beach
- Swimming: strong currents and no lifeguards, so be very careful
Our Tip: Go in winter, or at least out of season. We had the bay almost to ourselves right after Christmas. Check the tide times before you set off, though. From what I’ve read, the beach splits in two at high tide and people do get cut off
Is Three Cliffs Bay Worth It?
Yes. If you do one thing outside Cardiff, I’d make it this. It’s not a quick photo stop. You have to walk to it, and some of the path is a hike. But the reward is a wide sandy beach with limestone cliffs, a river winding through it, and in our case almost nobody else around.
Lisa said it was one of her favorite beach days ever. The terrain was unlike anything she’d experienced, and even with the gloomy weather she loved it. I feel the same.
Our Walk Down to Three Cliffs Bay
Parking was easy. We pulled into a field, basically, and set off along the trails on top of the cliffs. It was dreary and gray almost the whole time we were in Wales, but that morning the sun came out for a bit. Not sunscreen weather. It barely rained, though, and that felt like a gift.
We didn’t take a direct route. There were a couple of “oops, maybe this isn’t the right way” moments, and we were out for quite a while. We had Rex with us, so there was no rush to get anywhere. When we finally got down to the beach, it was stunning. Big, quiet, and empty. Not a soul in sight.
Parking and Walking Routes
We parked in a field and figured it out as we went, which worked but took longer than it needed to. If you want a plan, these are the usual starting points I found when researching:
- Parkmill: park near the Gower Heritage Centre and follow the path through the wooded valley toward Three Cliffs Bay. The route can be muddy and slippery after rain.
- Southgate National Trust car park: approach Three Cliffs Bay from the east along the clifftop. The National Trust route is about a mile each way, with a steep descent toward the bay.
- Penmaen: another approach to the bay, with footpaths leading through the dunes and countryside toward the beach.
Whichever you choose, the climb back up through the dunes is steep. Wear real shoes, not sneakers you care about.
On the cliff above the bay are the ruins of Pennard Castle, abandoned in the 1300s after sandstorms swept over this part of the Gower. We didn’t go up to it, but it’s on the Parkmill route if you want to add it.
Three Cliffs Bay with a Dog
This is a great walk with a dog. Rex loved it. He got his feet wet in the water but didn’t actually swim, which is about right for Rex. Dogs are allowed on the beach year-round according to Visit Wales, and there’s a shallow river he could have splashed in if he’d wanted.
Just keep your dog close near the cliff edges, and bring a towel for the car. You’ll need it.
Wild Swimming (and the Dry Robe)
Katie was the only one of us who got in. We didn’t go anywhere near her. I just remember looking out from a distance and there she was, swimming, in the sea in late December. Then she came out, cold and soaking, and wrapped herself in the new dry robe. Mission accomplished.
If you want to try it yourself, check the conditions first. Three Cliffs Bay has strong currents and rip tides, and Visit Swansea Bay advises against swimming there. RNLI lifeguards patrol during part of the year, so check before you go.
And if you want the robe, check Primark first.
Stopping in Swansea
I’ll be honest: we didn’t really see Swansea. We stopped there on the way out for the robe hunt, and we had lunch there on the way back to Cardiff. That’s it. So I can’t tell you whether Swansea itself deserves a full day.
What I can tell you is that it’s a convenient stop on the drive between Cardiff and the Gower, about 25 minutes from the bay. If you need to eat, shop or buy a very expensive robe, it’s right there.
Three Cliffs Bay FAQ
It depends where you start. There are several routes down to Three Cliffs Bay. We started from a field, took a few wrong turns and were out for a good few hours with a dog, so leave plenty of time.
Yes. Dogs are allowed on the beach, and our dog loved the walk.
Swimming isn’t recommended because of the strong currents and tides. Our friend swam there in December, but check the conditions and current safety advice before getting in.
A little over an hour by car. It’s an easy day trip if you base yourself in Cardiff like we did.
Listen to Our Wales Episode
Want to hear more about our trip? In this episode of The getAwayZ podcast, we talk about our three days in South Wales, from our cozy row house library to the long walk down to Three Cliffs Bay, trying Welsh rarebit in Abergavenny and the great dry robe hunt. We also share what we liked, what we’d do differently and whether South Wales is worth adding to a UK trip.
