Turin Travel Guide: Six Years of Living Italy's Most Underrated City.
We didn't just visit Turin. We lived there for six years, and whenever we travel back to Italy, this is where we go first. I always say we are going home.
Our time in Turin looked like this: our first years in an old stone house in the hills above the city, near Superga, where the Roman road was still visible right outside our gate and the house itself dated back to the 700s. We are pretty sure we had some lingering spirits to prove it. We couldn't come home after dark because the cinghiale (wild boar) that roamed the hillside made it genuinely unsafe. We survived a bee infestation, a cimici (stink bug) infestation, and a bat that caused two full days of household chaos before meeting its end via an IKEA bag. Every room had a fireplace. It felt like the Italian dream, chaotic wildlife and all.
Our last year we moved into the center, to an apartment just around the corner from our favorite café, near Parco Valentino. After lockdowns in the country, the freedom of having every market, bakery and bar within walking distance felt like being released. We adopted Rex, a dog from Naples who arrived with full napoletano energy, and he and Lisa logged a lot of hours in that park.
Six years of aperitivo in the piazza, of eating at the same restaurant so often the owner greeted us with limoncello, of watching Dylan learn to ski in the Alps where the Olympics were held. Turin doesn't try to compete with the famous Italian cities. It just gets on with being exceptional. And once it gets under your skin, it never really lets go.
Why Turin Deserves More Than a Stopover
Turin was the first capital of unified Italy in 1861. It's the birthplace of FIAT, Nutella, the Martini cocktail, and arguably the most extraordinary relic in the Christian world: the Shroud of Turin. It has one of the world's great Egyptian museums, 18 kilometers of covered arcaded walkways and an aperitivo culture so serious it borders on religion.
First-time visitors sometimes notice the graffiti and feel uncertain. We did too, at first. But this is true of all the large Italian cities, and it is largely the work of youth culture rather than anything sinister. Give it a day and you stop seeing it entirely.
The food alone is reason enough to come. Piedmontese cuisine is heartier than the Italian food most people imagine, and equally as delicious. Think rich pasta, truffles, slow-braised meats, and some of the best wine in the country just an hour down the road. Most visitors give Turin a night, if that. We'd suggest at least four days.
We also did a full episode on Turin on the GetAwayZ podcast if you want to hear us talk through the city before you go.
What to See in Turin
The Duomo and the Shroud of Turin
The Duomo di Torino was built in 1491 on the site of three previous churches and is one of the finest examples of Renaissance architecture in northern Italy. The patron saint of Turin, Giovanni Battista, is honored here, but for most visitors the real draw is what's kept inside: the Shroud of Turin. Whether you're religious or simply curious, it is one of the most remarkable objects in the world. It doesn't go on permanent display, but the Duomo is worth visiting regardless.
Basilica di Superga
We lived near this basilica during our first years in Turin, and we never got tired of it. You could see it lit up at night out of all our windows. Take the road, or better yet the little rack railway, up into the Superga hills to the east of the city and you'll find this breathtaking baroque basilica perched on the summit. Designed by Filippo Juvarra and completed in 1731, its orange and white facade is visible from the center of Turin on clear days.
Come for the architecture, stay for the views. Looking back down over the city with the Alps stretching out behind it is one of those moments you don't forget. There are trails all over the hillside if you want to make a half-day of it, and the little train up is charming in its own right.
Gran Madre di Dio
Sitting at the end of the Ponte Vittorio Emanuele I bridge across the Po river, this neoclassical church completed in 1831 and modeled on the Pantheon in Rome is one of Turin's most dramatic landmarks. It frames the river perfectly and the walk along the Po to reach it is one of our favorite strolls in the city.
Sacra di San Michele
About an hour's drive from the city center, perched on a mountain ridge in the Val di Susa, this medieval abbey is one of the most striking sights in all of Piemonte. It's a climb to get there, but the views and the sheer drama of the building make it absolutely worth it. Clear your morning and make it a half-day trip.
Museums and Palaces
The Egyptian Museum
This one surprises almost everyone. Turin's Museo Egizio is the second largest Egyptian museum in the world after Cairo. Yes, really. It's enormous, world-class, and almost no one outside Italy knows it exists. Various headphone tour options let you focus on the highlights and move at your own pace. Budget a good two to three hours. museoegizio.it
Mole Antonelliana: Cinema Museum and Viewpoint
Turin's defining landmark, that improbable needle-tipped tower that appears on the Italian two-cent coin, houses a genuinely fascinating cinema museum inside. It's hands-on, creative, and covers the history of film in a way that works for all ages. Famous movie sets are recreated throughout. Take the panoramic elevator to the top for a 360-degree view over the city and the Alps beyond. Budget one to two hours for both. museocinema.it
Palazzo Reale
The Royal Palace sits right on Turin's magnificent main square, Piazza Castello, at the heart of the city. It's a beautiful building with impressive state rooms and an art museum inside. Allow an hour or less. It's a compact visit but worth it for the architecture alone.
Venaria Reale
Just outside the city center, the Reggia di Venaria is one of the most spectacular royal residences in Europe and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The gardens alone are worth the trip. Allow one to two hours and combine it with a walk through the historic town of Venaria if you have time. We spent almost every morning walking CAsh, and then Rex here. It was located about 5 minutes for Dylans school and was perfectly quiet in the mornings.
Food and Drink in Turin
Piedmontese food is its own thing. Richer and more Alpine-influenced than the Italian food most people picture, but every bit as good. Here is where to start.
Bicerin
Turin's most iconic drink, and you have to try it at the source. Bicerin is a layered combination of espresso, thick hot chocolate, and cream. The key rule: do not stir it. You drink it in layers. The historic Caffè Al Bicerin has been serving it since 1763 and it's worth the visit just for the atmosphere. bicerin.it. We also would frequently go to Baratti & Milano as they also served a great Bicerin.
Pepe
This little café sits in a small piazza on Via Giolitti and it was the heartbeat of our daily life when we lived in the center. They serve what we think is the best cappuccino in Turin. In the evenings the aperitivo spills out into the square, charming and unhurried in the way only Italian café culture can be. We always brought Rex with us, and he would sit happily oin the piazza until he spotted birds, at which point all bets were off. We still go every time we are back in Turin.
La Medusa
Our absolute favorite restaurant in Turin, and it became that way because we ate there at least once a week for years. It's not in the city center but out near where we lived, on the way to Superga. The waiters knew us by name, and the owner had a habit of appearing with a glass of limoncello (sometimes two) while we were paying the bill. We always took visitors there.
The dish you have to order is the seafood pasta cooked under a pizza crust on top. It is by far the most memorable thing we ate in Turin. The calamari was also something we ordered every single time. We go back when we visit Turin to this day. It's one of those places that feels like a piece of home.
Aperitivo Culture
Aperitivo in Turin isn't just a drink. It comes with a full spread of food that in many places constitutes dinner. For something atmospheric, try Farmicia, a bar inside what was once a pharmacy, all dark wood and antique bottles. The restaurant next door, Del Cambio, is famous and supposed to be exceptional (though be warned it's heavy on offal). Stanley Tucci visits in his Italy series if you want a preview. i had an incredible meal there once after we moved to the Netherlands and it did not disappoint.
Porto Palazzo Market
One of the largest outdoor markets in Europe, and a full sensory experience. Go for lunch, as there's a great food hall attached. It's loud, chaotic and completely real. This is where the city actually shops, and it's one of the best ways to spend a morning in Turin.
More Favorites
L'Ancora on Via Della Rocca does amazing seafood: simple, fresh, and consistently excellent. Sestogusto on Via Mazzini is where we went for pizza and paninis. Nothing fancy, just very good. For gelato, Alberto Marchetti is our pick, a small chain but consistently excellent quality.
Other Things to Do in Turin
Parco Valentino: This beautiful park along the Po river was part of our daily life when we lived in the center. Rex logged a lot of kilometers here. It's free, it's gorgeous, and an evening walk along the river is the most local thing you can do in Turin.
Juventus Stadium: The stadium tour and museum are genuinely impressive. What most visitors don't know is that there is also an international school on the Juventus property, built when Ronaldo came to the club and needed a school for his children. Our son Dylan attended from the beginning, when there were just seven kids in his fifth grade class. By the time we left, the classes had grown to nearly twenty. The young Juventus academy players had their school on the top floor. Dylan made some of his best friends there.
The Piazzas: Turin's main squares (Piazza Castello, Piazza San Carlo, Piazza Vittorio Veneto) are among the grandest in Italy. Walk them all. Piazza San Carlo in particular, with its twin baroque churches facing each other, is one of the most elegant squares on the continent.
Shopping: The arcaded streets (portici) make Turin a great city to browse regardless of the weather. The main shopping area runs from Piazza Castello toward the train station. There's also a strong antiques market culture if that's your thing.
Day Trips from Turin
Turin is a remarkable base for exploring Piemonte and beyond.
The Langhe Wine Region: About an hour's drive south, the hills of the Langhe are home to Barolo and Barbaresco, two of Italy's greatest red wines, both from the Nebbiolo grape. The villages are beautiful and the wine tastings are relaxed and personal. The town of Alba is the heart of it all and in autumn becomes the truffle capital of the world. A half-day trip works perfectly, or make a full weekend of it.
Sestriere: About 1.5 hours by car into the Alps, Sestriere hosted the alpine skiing events at the 2006 Turin Winter Olympics. Our son Dylan learned to ski here through his school, which is one of those only-in-Italy experiences we still talk about. In winter it's a serious ski destination; in summer the mountain scenery is spectacular.
Martini & Rossi: The vermouth was invented in Turin and the Martini & Rossi distillery and museum is just 20 minutes south of the city in Pessione. They offer tours and tastings at the home of one of Italy's most iconic drinks. Worth the short drive.
Milan: 1 hour 15 minutes by train, 1.5 hours by car. An easy day trip if you want city energy. Read more about Milan in our Milan Travel Guide.
Where to Stay in Turin
We have recommended the same handful of hotels to visitors for years and always come back to them ourselves. Staying in the historic center puts you within walking distance of almost everything, the main piazzas, the Egyptian Museum, the Mole Antonelliana and the best aperitivo bars.
Principe di Piemonte is our top pick for a classic Turin stay. The rooms are beautiful and the bar is genuinely one of the best in the city. Loger Confort Residence is what we recommend for families as they are fully equipped apartments in a great central location, which makes a real difference when you're staying for more than a couple of nights. Opera 35 Boutique Hotel is a charming smaller option with a lot of personality. And the NH Collection Torino is a reliable, well-located choice that consistently delivers.
For a full breakdown of the best neighborhoods and hotels in Turin at every budget, see our complete Where to Stay in Turin guide.
Neighborhoods to Know
Turin's historic center is where you want to be based. It's walkable, central and puts everything within reach. The wide arcaded streets (portici) make it easy to get around in any weather, and the main piazzas, museums and restaurants are all within a short walk of each other. This is where we lived in our final year in the city and the access to daily life daily life, markets, cafes and parks made it feel completely different from our earlier years out in the hills. made it feel completely different from our earlier years out in the hills.
Quadrilatero Romano sits just north of Piazza Castello and is the most atmospheric part of the center. Narrow streets, independent restaurants, the best aperitivo bars in the city. This is where Turin's food and nightlife scene is most concentrated and it's worth an evening wander even if you're not staying here.
Vanchiglia is across the Po river, artsy and local, a bit quieter than the center. Good for a morning walk and a coffee away from the tourist trail.
For most visitors, the historic center is the right base. It's where you'll spend most of your time anyway.
Practical Information
Getting there: Turin has its own airport (Turin Airport, TRN) with connections across Europe. It's also on the high-speed rail network, with Paris about 5.5 hours by TGV and Milan just over an hour away.
Getting around: The city center is very walkable. Turin also has a reliable tram and metro system for getting further afield. If you plan to explore the hills or do day trips, a car is worth having.
How long to stay: Minimum three days for the city itself. Four to five days if you want to do day trips into the Langhe or the Alps.
Best time to visit: Spring (April to June) and fall (September to October) are ideal: mild, beautiful, and less crowded than summer. Winter is cold but magical with the Alps as a backdrop. Summer is warm and buzzing, though many locals leave in August.
Listen to Our Turin Episode
We covered Turin in depth on The GetAwayZ podcast, including what it was actually like to live here through the years, raise a family, and experience a side of Italy that most visitors never see. Listen here or wherever you get your podcasts.
