An Evening in Rouen: A Quick Stop with Big History

We only had a few hours in Rouen, but it ended up being one of tour favorite stops on our Normandy route. The Gothic churches, half-timbered buildings and winding streets give it a completely different feel from the nearby coast towns. Even in a short visit, there’s a lot to take in. We’re already planning our return with more time.

Exploring the Old Town

We focused our time around the historic center. Rouen is compact, so you can cover a lot on foot in a few hours. We walked through the main squares and visited four of the city’s most well-known churches. The buildings here range from medieval to modern reconstruction, and they’re all packed in close together.

The Churches of Rouen

We saw the Rouen Cathedral, which towers over the city and inspired a whole series of paintings by Monet. Even if you’ve seen cathedrals elsewhere in France, this one feels especially grand. Just a few minutes away, we passed Saint-Maclou and Saint-Ouen, both quieter but just as detailed, with towering spires and stained glass.

The fourth stop was Church of Saint Joan of Arc, a sharp contrast to the others. It’s a modern structure, built on the exact spot where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in 1431. The shape of the building is unusual, with sweeping lines and stained glass windows saved from an older church. It’s not what you expect, but it fits the story.

Dinner at La Couronne

We had dinner at La Couronne, the oldest inn in France, dating back to 1345. It’s listed in the Michelin Guide, not for a star, but for its heritage and classic Normandy cuisine. Julia Child famously had her first French meal here, which she described in My Life in France as the moment that changed everything. The dining room is exactly what you’d hope for, dark wood beams, white tablecloths and walls lined with portraits of past guests. We had a three-course meal for €45, and every dish delivered. It’s the kind of place that doesn’t try too hard because it doesn’t have to.

Know Before You Go

When to visit: Late afternoon or early evening is ideal if you’re passing through on a road trip.
How to get there: Rouen is about 1 hour 20 minutes from Paris, 1 hour from Honfleur, and 1 hour 10 minutes from Le Havre.
Where to stay: We didn’t stay overnight, but there are plenty of boutique hotels near the old town if you want to extend your visit.
What to pack: Comfortable shoes, the old town is best explored on foot, and the cobblestones are uneven in spots.bled and slightly uneven.

Planning More Coastal Travel in France?

If you’re exploring Normandy or heading along the coast, check out:
Things to Do in Étreta t – Cliff hikes, sculpture gardens and local cider
Things to Do in Honfleur – Half-timbered houses, harbor strolls and impressionist art
A Weekend in Giverny – Monet’s garden, Seine views and a stay at Domaine de la Cornichestay at Domaine de la Corniche