Copenhagen,Denmark: Boats, Beaches & Deer in the Forest

Copenhagen makes it all look easy — family travel, dog-friendly parks, public transit, and plenty to do in any season. We brought a teen, a dog, and zero Danish language skills, and still had one of our best trips yet. It’s beautiful without being too polished, organized without being boring, and full of moments that make you think, “Okay, I could live here.”

WHAT WE DID

We came for the canal views and cozy vibes and stayed for deer parks, seaside walks, treetop towers, and a few unexpected surprises — like a wild little neighborhood with graffiti, good coffee, and a total “otherworld” energy.

Tivoli Gardens – One of the world’s oldest amusement parks and still one of the most magical. From roller coasters to rose gardens to live music and fairy lights, it’s not just for kids. We spent hours here and loved every minute.

Canal Tour – The best way to get your bearings in Copenhagen. Gliding through Nyhavn, past the Opera House and the Little Mermaid, it’s calm, scenic, and gives you that first “we’re really here” feeling.

Freetown Christiania – A self-proclaimed autonomous neighborhood full of street art, funky architecture, and an alternative vibe that’s unlike anywhere else in the city. You’ll feel like you stepped into another world — part art commune, part protest, part peaceful hangout. Not ideal for young kids, but older teens will find it fascinating.

Brøndby Strandpark – We bundled up and headed to the coast, and even in the winter chill, it was totally worth it. The beach was quiet, moody, and beautiful in that stark Scandinavian way. Rex loved the wide-open space, and we took a long, brisk walk along the shore. Not a swim day, but definitely a “clear your head” kind of place.

National Aquarium Denmark (Den Blå Planet) – A sleek, modern space right on the waterfront. The sea tunnel was mesmerizing, and the exhibits were well done — great for kids, teens, and curious adults alike.

Nyhavn (New Haven) – The postcard view of Copenhagen. Colorful buildings, boats bobbing in the canal, and just the right amount of touristy energy. We walked through during the day and again in the evening — both were great. A must for that “yes, we were in Copenhagen” photo.

The Forest Tower (Skovtårnet) – A spiraling wooden tower rising above the trees in South Zealand. You walk through the forest, then up and up until you’re above it all, with 360-degree views that stretch for miles. One of the most peaceful and surprising things we did in Denmark.

Segway Tour – It’s a great way to cover a lot of ground without exhausting everyone’s feet. The tour was smooth, informative, Dylan was not that into it.

The Little Mermaid – Tiny, iconic, and honestly… a little underwhelming. But you kind of have to see her. We passed by on our canal tour and again on foot, and both times felt like checking off a box on the Copenhagen bingo card. Still worth a look — just manage your expectations.

Deer Park (Dyrehaven) – A peaceful nature reserve just outside the city, where you walk past herds of deer in wide-open meadows and forests. Totally serene, and one of our absolute favorite spots. obviously no dogs allowed.

If We Had More Time…

There’s always something you miss, no matter how much you plan. Here are a few spots we didn’t make it to this time — but they’re on our list for next time.

Designmuseum Danmark – We’re big fans of Scandinavian design, so missing this one hurt a little. It’s packed with cool furniture, fashion, and industrial design, plus hands-on areas for kids and teens.

The Round Tower (Rundetaarn) – A classic Copenhagen climb we meant to do but ran out of time. No stairs — just a long spiraling ramp to the top with killer city views.

Glyptoteket – An art museum founded by the Carlsberg beer guy, with everything from ancient statues to Degas and Monet. Also: it has a palm-filled winter garden and rooftop café.

Experimentarium – A massive science and tech museum just north of the city with tons of hands-on exhibits. Would’ve been perfect for a rainy day with Dylan — and Rex could’ve had a nap.

Botanical Garden – Right next to the Natural History Museum and home to tropical greenhouses, butterfly rooms, and quiet garden paths. Looked like a great dog walk + chill combo.

WHAT WE ATE

Danish food is simple, hearty, and sneakily addictive. We didn’t do a deep dive into restaurants this time — but here are four standouts we kept going back to.

Smørrebrød – Open-faced rye sandwiches topped with everything from shrimp to roast beef.

Churros – Hot, crispy, and dipped in chocolate at Tivoli Gardens. Total streetfood win.

Irish Coffee – Found everywhere, made strong, and served with a thick layer of cream.

Frikadeller – Danish meatballs, often served with potatoes and gravy. Comfort food level: elite.

WHERE WE STAYED

We stayed at the Imperial Hotel the first time — centrally located, easy to get around, and just a short walk to Tivoli. It had a solid breakfast, friendly staff, and a cozy vibe even in the middle of winter. Great base for first-timers in the city.
On our return trip, we booked an Airbnb in Hvidovre, a quiet residential neighborhood just outside the city. It was peaceful, had more space (especially for Rex), and felt like we were living like locals. Bonus: easy access to the train and plenty of green space nearby for dog walks.

Should You Visit Copenhagen?

Yes. Especially if you’re into cities that manage to be both efficient and charming. Copenhagen is clean, calm, and full of character — with just enough weird (hello, Christiania) to keep it interesting. It’s great with kids, easy with a dog, and packed with things to do even if you don’t have a full week. If you like your cities walkable, waterfront, and quietly cool, put it on your list.