Amalfi Coast: What We Loved, Where We Stayed, and How Much It Costs

We have been back to the Amalfi Coast three times now. The first time was a week on Capri. The second was one of our first trips after moving to Florence. The third was a family trip with my brother. Each time we found something new — boat days that never get old, beaches we could not wait to revisit, and meals we are still talking about.
Here is what we loved across those trips, what we would do again, and a few things we would skip. If you are planning your own Amalfi Coast trip, this is what worked for us.

🎧 Listen to our full Amalfi Coast podcast episode:

What We Loved

Boat Days Around Capri

The highlight of all three trips was our boat days around Capri. We always hire a small motorboat with a local captain (find Giuseppe if you can!). The freedom of swimming through grottos, finding tiny private beaches, and docking for lunch is unmatched.

We have visited the famous Blue Grotto, but the real magic is in the smaller caves and the hidden swimming spots. On our last trip, we docked for lunch at a restaurant only accessible by boat. The seafood and prosecco were perfect after a morning in the water.

Massa Lubrense as a Base

We have stayed in Massa Lubrense twice now, and it has become our favorite base on the Amalfi Coast. It is quieter than Sorrento, with incredible views and an easy drive to the coast’s towns. The nearby marina beaches are perfect for a swim, and it is a great launch point for boat days around Capri. We usually head into Sorrento for some shopping and dinner, but we love coming back to Massa in the evening, it is just more relaxed.

Food Tours and Local Experiences

One of our favorite days was a family-run food tour. We visited a lemon farm for a limoncello tasting, a mozzarella farm for a cheese-making demo (yes, real mozzarella is made from buffalo milk), and a pizzeria where we learned to make our own pizzas from scratch.

It was one of those days that sticks with you long after the trip ends.

Scenic Drives Around Amalfi Coast

Driving the Amalfi Coast coastal road is a must. While we did not brave the scooters ourselves (those cliffside roads are intense), driving the coastal road is a must. The views from Massa Lubrense toward Positano and Amalfi are spectacular.

Beaches We loved

Some of the beaches we loved and a few we would head back to in a second:

Marina Grande Beach, Positano
The most famous and glamorous beach along the Amalfi Coast. Expect a scene, but it is worth it once.

Fornillo Beach, Positano
More relaxed than Marina Grande, with great swimming and fewer crowds.

Marina di Praia, Praiano
A small, dramatic beach wedged between cliffs. One of our favorite places for a beach day and an Aperol Spritz.

Fiordo di Furore
A dramatic little beach tucked beneath an old stone bridge. A great spot to stop for photos and a swim.

Marina Piccola, Capri
Perfect for swimming after a boat tour. We love grabbing lunch at one of the beach clubs here.

Where We Ate and Drank

Some of our favorite meals and drinks along the coast:

Iconic dinner under a canopy of lemon trees.

Da Paolino Capri

The ultimate beach club lunch.

La Fontelina Capri

CAPRI
Quisisana — Great spot for cocktails and people watching.

POSITANO
La Sponda, Le Sirenuse — Elegant and romantic, worth the splurge.

MASSA LUBRENSE
Da Michele — Our local favorite. We have eaten here on multiple trips and it never disappoints.

Visiting Pompeii

We have visited Pompeii twice, and it is one of those places that stays with you. On our first trip, we took a boat from Capri and then arranged a car to Pompeii. On a later trip, we visited again while based in Massa Lubrense. It was an easy outing by car.

Walking through the ancient Roman streets, seeing the forum, baths, and plaster casts of the victims was powerful and humbling. It is absolutely worth adding to your Amalfi Coast itinerary.

How to get there:

From Capri: Boat to Naples or Sorrento, then driver or taxo to Pompeii

From Naples: Circumvesuviana train or drive, about 30 minutes

From Sorrento or Massa Lubrense: Circumvesuviana train or drive, about 30 minutes

Where We Stayed

JK Place Capri
Luxury stay on Capri during our first trip. A gorgeous hotel and an unforgettable experience.

Villa Rentals in Massa Lubrense
For trips two and three, we stayed in vacation with terraces and wide views of Capri and the Faraglioni. We loved the quiet base and the space for longer stays. click on image for booking info.


Cost of Visiting the Amalfi Coast

Here is what you can expect to spend on a trip to the Amalfi Coast, based on our experience.

Accommodation

  • Budget Airbnbs and small hotels: 100 to 150 euros per night
  • Mid range hotels: 200 to 350 euros per night
  • Luxury stays: 500 euros and up per night

Meals

  • Casual trattorias and pizzerias: 20 to 40 euros per person
  • Beach clubs and nicer restaurants: 60 to 120 euros per person
  • Iconic dining at places like La Sponda or Da Paolino: 150 to 200 euros per person

Boat hire

  • Small motorboat with captain for a full day: 250 to 400 euros, shared across your group

Transport

Private driver transfers: 100 to 150 euros one way between towns

Rental car if used: 80 to 120 euros per day


Should You Visit the Amalfi Coast

Yes, but know what you are getting into. The Amalfi Coast is definitely a splurge destination, especially in high season. It can also be crowded. But the views, boat days, and incredible food make it unforgettable.

If we go back again, we would:

  • Base ourselves again in Massa Lubrense
  • Do more boat days and beach club lunches
  • Skip trying to squeeze in too many towns in one day
  • Definitely revisit La Fontelina and Da Paolino

If you are dreaming of your own Amalfi Coast trip, we keep going back for a reason.

Related Posts

If you liked this post, here are a few more of our favorite trips around Italy and the Mediterranean: