Things to Do in Dubrovnik: City Walls, Lokrum Island, Beaches and More

Dubrovnik had been on our list for years and when we finally made it there in the summer of 2021, we were lucky enough to visit during a brief window when the city had breathing room. We took an overnight ferry from Ancona, Italy to Split and then drove down the coast through Bosnia-Herzegovina. Dylan was sick (not COVID – we tested multiple times) and we worried they would not let us board with temperature checks and vaccine requirements still in place. He spent the entire ferry ride sleeping in the cabin while we held our breath at the health screening.

The drive from Split to Dubrovnik takes you through a small slice of Bosnia-Herzegovina. There is no other route. The scenery is beautiful though not much beach. We stopped at a small bakery and bought traditional Bosnian pastries still warm from the oven. The border crossing was straightforward but they did not stamp our passports. On the approach into Dubrovnik we pulled over at roadside fruit stands and bought the best produce we have had in Croatia.

We stayed in an Airbnb in Ploče with a terrace overlooking the Old Town and Lokrum Island. The first afternoon we sat outside with drinks and just stared. The view of those medieval walls rising from the Adriatic is something you do not get tired of. The walk into the Old Town took about 15 minutes but involved a lot of stairs down which meant a lot of stairs back up at the end of the day. The apartment was very dog-friendly. Rex loved it.

When to Go to Dubrovnik

We get this question constantly. Here is the honest answer.

May, June and September are ideal. The weather is warm without being brutal. Cruise ship traffic is lighter than peak summer. Restaurants and attractions are fully open. You can walk the city walls without feeling like you are going to pass out.

July and August are crowded and hot. We visited in summer and the city walls in midday heat are no joke. Cruise ships dock multiple times per day. The Old Town becomes a river of people. If you go in summer, do what we did – start very early. City walls at 8 AM opening. Beaches before 10 AM. Dinner late. Avoid midday entirely.

October through April is quieter and cheaper but many restaurants close for the season. November through March can feel empty. That might appeal to you. It did not appeal to us.

Avoid: The week of Easter when the city either empties completely as locals leave or becomes overwhelmed with tourists depending on the year.

What Makes Dubrovnik Different

Unlike other Croatian coastal cities, Dubrovnik was an independent republic for centuries. It rivaled Venice in wealth and power. The city walls were not just decorative – they defended one of the most important maritime trading centers in the Mediterranean.

The 1990s siege during the Croatian War of Independence destroyed much of the city. What you see now is the result of meticulous reconstruction. The terracotta roofs inside the walls are almost all new. You can still see the difference in roof color from above – the brighter orange tiles mark homes that were rebuilt.

Game of Thrones filmed extensively here. King’s Landing is Dubrovnik. If you have watched the show even casually, you will recognize locations immediately. That has brought a surge of tourism. It has also brought income to a city that desperately needed it after the war.

Walking the city walls gives you views most cities cannot offer. You are looking down on an entire medieval city on one side and the Adriatic on the other. It is one of the most complete fortification systems in Europe.

Know Before You Go

Getting there: Fly into Dubrovnik Airport or take a ferry from Italy. We drove from Split which requires passing through Bosnia-Herzegovina. This is the only route and it is fine. Border crossing is quick.

Cruise ships: Check the cruise schedule before you plan your day. When three or more ships dock the Old Town becomes almost impassable between 10 AM and 4 PM. The city walls feel like a slow-moving line. Go early or go late.

Stairs everywhere: Dubrovnik is not flat. The city is built on a steep hillside. Stairs are constant. If you have mobility issues this will be challenging. Wear good shoes.

Bring water: Everything inside the walls is expensive. Bring your own water especially if you are walking the walls in summer.

Book the big things early: City walls tickets can be purchased in advance online. Do this. The lines at Pile Gate in summer are long. Fort Lovrijenac is included with your city walls ticket within 72 hours so plan accordingly.

Early mornings are key: We cannot stress this enough. Dubrovnik at 8 AM is a different city than Dubrovnik at noon. The light is better. The crowds are gone. The heat is manageable.

Dog-friendly: Dubrovnik’s beaches and Lokrum Island are generally pet-friendly but bring water for your dog in summer. We saw dogs at outdoor restaurant seating though we did not bring Rex to dinners.

Dubrovnik’s Famous City Walls

If there is one thing you cannot miss in Dubrovnik, it is the city walls. Built between the 12th and 17th centuries, they surround the entire Old Town and offer views of the Adriatic on one side and terracotta rooftops on the other.

We brought Rex with us and he handled the steep stone steps better than we expected. We went very early in the morning right when they opened at 8 AM. By 10 AM the walls were packed. In summer heat, going early is not optional.

The full walk takes about two hours if you stop for photos. There are a few small openings where you can exit if needed but most people do the entire loop. The views are worth every step.

Entrance: Near Pile Gate in Old Town
Tickets: Around €35 for adults, free for kids under 7
Hours: 8:00 AM – 7:00 PM (seasonal)
GetYourGuide: Book City Walls Tickets

Lokrum Island: The Perfect Escape

It only takes a quick 15-minute ferry from Dubrovnik’s Old Port to get to Lokrum Island but it feels like you have left the city completely. We went mid-morning around 10:30 AM. The boats run regularly throughout the day.

We walked through the botanical gardens which were originally started by Archduke Maximilian in the 19th century. Peacocks are everywhere. They are not shy. We swam off the rocky edges in the designated swimming areas. No sandy beach – just ladders down into clear water. We also hiked up to Fort Royal for the panoramic view back toward Dubrovnik.

They have a replica Iron Throne from Game of Thrones set up in the former Benedictine monastery. It is a quick stop. Not the reason we went but fun once you are there.

We stayed a few hours. Long enough to swim, wander and eat something at one of the casual cafés. The best part about Lokrum is what it does not have. No cars. No marble streets. No cruise ship groups. Just pine trees, rocky coastline, cicadas and open space. After days inside the Old Town walls, the quiet and greenery felt like a reset.

Ferry Departure: Dubrovnik Old Port
Tickets: Around €27 round-trip (includes island entry)
Hours: 9:00 AM – 7:00 PM (summer)
Dog-friendly: Yes
Lokrum Official Website

Fort Lovrijenac: Dubrovnik’s Iconic Fortress

Perched on a cliff just outside the western walls, Fort Lovrijenac has defended Dubrovnik since the 11th century. The views over the Adriatic alone are worth the climb but history lovers and Game of Thrones fans will appreciate it even more.

If you already have the Dubrovnik city walls ticket, entry to Lovrijenac is included within 72 hours. We went inside because the views back toward the Old Town are the whole point. It is known as the Red Keep in Game of Thrones. Even if you have only casually watched the show you recognize the setting immediately. That said, it would still be impressive without the TV connection. It is dramatic on its own.

Fort Lovrijenac was less crowded than the main walls. That surprised us. You get the same sweeping views of the Adriatic and the city but with more breathing room. The main walls feel immersive – you are walking the entire city perimeter. Lovrijenac feels strategic and powerful. You are standing on a fortress looking back at the city. Different vibe.

Location: Outside Pile Gate
Tickets: Included with city walls ticket
Hours: 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM (seasonal)
Tip: Visit early to avoid midday heat and crowds.

Best Beaches Around Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik has beautiful beaches though most are rocky rather than sandy. Lisa took Rex to the beach every morning before the crowds arrived. He loves the water and had no issues.

Banje Beach is just outside the Old Town and easy to reach. Calm water, incredible views of Lokrum Island and the city walls. It gets crowded quickly but if you go early it is manageable.

Pasjača Beach is our favorite. About 30 minutes south of Dubrovnik, the hike down the cliffs is daunting but so worth it. Once you get there it feels isolated and private. Bring a cooler because there is no café. The water is incredibly clear.

Plaža Beach was Lisa and Rex’s morning spot. Less crowded than Banje, dog-friendly and easy access.

If you want a full guide to the most beautiful beaches near Dubrovnik and across Croatia, check out our Best Beaches in Croatia post. We’ve rounded up all our favorites, including spots you can reach by boat and a few hidden gems most people skip.

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Haunted Dubrovnik Night Tour

One evening we joined a haunted night tour through the Old Town and it ended up being one of our favorite experiences. We booked a small group walking tour through GetYourGuide. It was not a cheesy jump-scare situation. It was a historian who clearly loves the city and knows the archives. That made a difference.

The story that stood out most was about the plague years. Dubrovnik was one of the first cities to implement quarantine in the 14th century. Ships were isolated for 40 days on nearby islands before entering the city. Standing in the dark streets hearing about families locked inside homes, mass graves outside the walls and the fear of invisible illness felt intense. Especially after living through COVID. It did not feel distant. It felt real.

There was also a story about public executions near Luža Square and how the city used fear as a form of order. That stuck with us. The idea that the beauty of Dubrovnik hides a much harsher past.

We started near Pile Gate after sunset, walked through Stradun once it had mostly emptied, cut into the smaller side alleys near the Franciscan Monastery, stopped near the Rector’s Palace and ended close to the Jesuit Stairs. At night those quiet stone streets feel completely different than they do during the day.

It was not theatrical. It was atmospheric. And honestly, Dubrovnik at night does half the work for you. The polished limestone reflects the streetlights. The alleys narrow. The crowds disappear. That shift alone makes everything feel heavier.

What made it one of my favorite experiences? It changed how we saw the city. During the day Dubrovnik is cruise ships, Game of Thrones, photos, restaurants. At night, stripped of all that, it felt layered and complex. We like experiences that add context. This one did.

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Where to Eat in Dubrovnik

We tried several local restaurants but Bosnian food ended up being one of the highlights of our trip.

Taj Mahal

📍 Ul. Nikole Gučetića 2

This was our favorite. We ordered ćevapi with somun bread which is the classic – grilled minced meat sausages served with raw onions and kajmak. We also tried burek, flaky pastry filled with meat, and a mixed grill platter so we could taste everything. If you go, order the platters. It is the best way to understand Bosnian food.

We got takeout and ate on our terrace overlooking the sea and the Old Town. That meal with that view is one of my best Dubrovnik memories.

Pantarul

📍 Kralja Tomislava 1

We ordered a mix of seafood and meat which is what they are known for. Adriatic tuna tartare, slow-cooked lamb, house-made pasta with fresh herbs and vegetables that actually taste like they came from someone’s garden that morning. Their desserts are understated but good. Olive oil cake, semifreddo, things like that.

It was the four of us – me, Katie, Lisa and Dylan. It felt like a grown-up dinner but still relaxed enough that we were not stressed about bringing a teenager. It felt local. That is the difference. It was not trying to be Old Town Dubrovnik. It was not shouting for cruise ship traffic. The menu changes with the seasons which always signals confidence. You could tell they care about ingredients.

Konoba Dubrava

📍 Bosanka 17

Authentic peka-style slow-cooked meats just outside the city walls. Peka is traditional Dalmatian slow cooking. Meat and vegetables are placed in a shallow dish, covered with a heavy iron bell called a čripnja, then buried under hot coals. It cooks for hours. The result is fall-apart tender lamb or octopus with potatoes that soak up all the juices. We tried it and loved it.

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Planning More Croatia Travel?

Looking to explore more of Croatia? Check out these guides:
Things to Do in Split – Beaches, Old Town and Krka Waterfalls
Best Beaches in Croatia – Hidden gems along the Adriatic coast
Where to Stay in Dubrovnik – Best hotels and neighborhoods