Milan Travel Guide: Why We Love Milan
Milan gets dismissed all the time.
People call it a business city. A fashion city. A place you pass through on the way to Lake Como. We have heard every version of that take and it almost always comes from someone who spent half a day near the Duomo and left.
That was never our experience.
We were living in Torino, which meant Milan was close enough to become part of regular life. We went in for dinner. For weekends. Sometimes with a plan, sometimes without one. The more we returned, the more it made sense.
Milan is not trying to entertain you every five minutes. It assumes you can keep up.
This is why we keep going back.
If you’re looking for a Milan travel guide that goes beyond a quick stop at the Duomo, this is how we’d do it.
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Looking for where to stay? Here’s our full guide to the best areas and hotels in Milan.
The Duomo
Any Milan travel guide will start with the Duomo, and for good reason. The building took nearly 600 years to complete – they started in 1386 and finished in 1965. There are over 3,400 statues on it, making it one of the most statue-covered buildings in the world.
You can go inside the church, but the real thing to do is buy a ticket to the roof.
You’re basically a live gargoyle up there. The flying buttresses are right next to you. You can see all the carvings and details that you miss from the ground. When you’re at street level anywhere in Europe, you miss everything – the intricacies, the carvings, the details that took years to create. Here, when you’re on the roof, it’s right next to you. You get a completely different level of appreciation for the thought and care that went into the actual construction.
It’s surreal. The view is good, but it’s more about being inside the architecture itself. You’re even with a lot of the taller buildings around you, so it’s less about panoramic city views and more about being part of this gothic structure.
It’s not for the faint of heart. The roof has a steep angle. You’re quite high. Wear tennis shoes, not heels. There’s an elevator but you still have stairs to climb. Even if you take the elevator, you need appropriate shoes because the grade is real.
Pre-book your tickets. It’s about 20 euros plus entry to the church. Book a tour with rooftop access if you want history and context, or just get the standard ticket and explore on your own.
Make sure your shoulders and knees are covered. They check at security. Carry a scarf or wrap if it’s summer. They will not let you in otherwise.
Piazza Duomo
The piazza in front is always busy. It’s probably the biggest or most central square in Milan. The Christmas markets set up here in winter and take over the whole area. They’re smaller than Torino’s markets but still impressive. A couple blocks wrapping around the back of the Duomo.
We once saw a mob of Santas on roller skates come through the Christmas market. That’s Milan. Things just happen.
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
It’s one of the oldest shopping malls in the world. Opened in 1877. Glass ceiling, marble floors, high-end stores and restaurants. It connects Piazza Duomo to Piazza della Scala.
The Willy Wonka movie with Timothée Chalamet was based on this place. The architecture is stunning. In winter they put a massive Christmas tree in the middle. The Rinascente department store is right here too – probably the best one in Italy. They do beautiful Christmas decorations.
There’s a mosaic bull on the floor and people spin on its testicles for good luck. The tiles have been repaired multiple times because of this. It’s so worn down from people doing it.
Worth walking through even if you’re not shopping. Grab a coffee, look up at the ceiling, keep moving.
The Last Supper
You have to see it. But you have to plan very well.
Santa Maria delle Grazie is the church. The Last Supper is in the refectory next door. It’s a Dominican convent and church complex, and it’s a World Heritage Site.
Tickets go on sale exactly 30 days before the date you want. If you want to go December 30th, you buy tickets November 30th. That is set in stone. Figure out the time zone. They sell out immediately. This is not flexible.
You have to plan very well – what time tickets go on sale, what time zone you’re in, what date you need to buy for. Tickets sell out in minutes.
If you miss that window, use a tour company like Get Your Guide. We did because I didn’t plan accordingly. Small group tour. We got 15 minutes with the fresco plus a quick tour of the church. The guide gave us history and context, then we had time alone with the artwork. It was worth it. Book here.
The painting finished in 1498. It survived World War II bombing in 1943 because of protective sandbags and scaffolding. The building around it was destroyed but the wall with the painting stayed standing.
Fun fact: Leonardo da Vinci worked so slowly and irregularly that the prior of the convent formally complained to the Duke of Milan about Leonardo’s long pauses and inconsistent schedule. They were basically like, get this guy out of here.
The room is dim. Flash photography is not allowed and regular photos are hard because of the lighting. You have to be careful about light exposure because the fresco is over 500 years old. Restoration has happened over the years but it still takes your breath away.
Plan ahead or be flexible with your timing.
Castello Sforzesco and Parco Sempione
The castle has multiple museums inside. We did a scavenger hunt through one of them with Dylan. There’s a Pietà by Michelangelo in there that we got to see almost alone. The building is beautiful, the museums are varied – art, furniture, instruments, history.
Leonardo da Vinci designed defensive systems for the castle. The castle has been destroyed, rebuilt, and repurposed so many times that parts of it were once used as military barracks and warehouses rather than a residence.
Near the castle there’s an enormous open-air market. One half is food, the other half is goods – gloves, hats, scarves, handmade things. It goes on for blocks. We walked through in winter and it was packed.
Parco Sempione
The park behind the castle. Big, green, where people actually go to relax. We walked through here after the museum with gelato.
There are walking paths, a small lake, and the Arco della Pace at the far end. The arch is a triumphal arch from the early 1800s. Worth the walk if you have time. Good photos.
The park works well if you need a break from crowds or if you’re traveling with kids. Dylan could run around without us worrying about traffic or tourist groups. It’s actual green space in the middle of the city.
Brera District
Just north of the Duomo. Incredibly charming. Mom and pop shops, narrow streets, smaller buildings. It feels like a neighborhood, not a museum district.
The streets were never widened during modernization, so it still feels cozy and old-world. You’re walking on cobblestones past artisan studios and small galleries. There are cafes with two tables outside. Wine bars you’d never find unless you lived here.
The Pinacoteca di Brera is the anchor, but the district works even if you skip the museum. Wander Via Brera, Via Fiori Chiari, Via Madonnina. Stop when something looks good. That’s the whole point.
Brera is where Milan creatives actually live – designers, architects, artists. The vibe is less polished than the fashion district, less touristy than Centro Storico. It’s the part of Milan that feels like you found it yourself.
Good for slow mornings with coffee, afternoon aperitivo before the Navigli crowds, or dinner when you want something quieter. We always end up here at some point during a Milan trip. It just works.
Monumental Cemetery
Not usually our thing but we are glad we went. It opened in 1866 and it’s enormous.
Many tombstones are designed as sculptures. It’s like going to a museum. Every tombstone – or a lot of them – are actual art pieces. Some of them are so emotional. We got totally teary looking at the faces carved into the statues. You look at the statue’s face and it’s just absolutely heart-wrenching.
There were children, people from COVID. It was beautiful and sad and something we’d never experienced before. We had no history with anyone there, no connection, and yet it hit us. The artistry and emotion were just overwhelming.
It’s a little outside city center to the north. Not difficult to get there. And I understand how weird this sounds – not everyone wants to visit a cemetery on vacation. But it really is something special. If you’re into art, architecture, or history, it’s worth the trip.
You can book a tour here.
Teatro alla Scala
The opera house. One of the most famous in the world. We didn’t see a performance but we walked by it multiple times. The building from the outside is impressive but understated compared to the Duomo.
There’s a museum inside where you can see costumes, set designs, and the history of Italian opera. If you can get tickets to a show, do it. Even if you’re not into opera, the interior is stunning.
The piazza in front is always busy. Good place to people-watch.
Quadrilatero della Moda
The fashion district. Via Montenapoleone is the main street. Prada, Gucci, Versace, Armani – they’re all here.
Even if you’re not shopping, it’s worth walking through. The window displays are art. The people-watching is next level. The buildings are beautiful.
We mostly just walked around and looked. Everything is expensive. But it’s Milan’s thing, so you kind of have to see it. The energy is different here than the rest of the city. More polished, more intentional.
If you want to actually shop, there are also some smaller boutiques on the side streets that are less intimidating than the flagship stores.
Starbucks Roastery
Italy was very protective of their coffee. When we lived there, Starbucks wasn’t allowed. Then they opened the first one and it had to be a roastery. All beans had to be roasted in Italy.
It’s like the Willy Wonka chocolate factory of Starbucks. People wait to get in. It’s fancy, there’s so much to look at, they have nitrogen ice cream. Normally I don’t even like Starbucks. But this is a cool place to see.
Aperitivo Culture
Turin invented aperitivo, but Milan made it massive. Between 6pm and 9pm, bars set out free food with drinks. Not just nuts – pasta, pizza, salads, sometimes full buffets.
The deal is simple. Buy a drink, eat as much as you want from the buffet. Spritz, Negroni, Campari, whatever. The food comes with it.
Navigli is the obvious choice but it gets packed. Brera has quieter options. Corso Como if you want something more polished. Bar Basso invented the Negroni Sbagliato and still pours a strong one.
This is how Milan eats dinner in summer. One drink, two hours of food, and you’re done for the night.
What to Eat
Milan is in the north so the food is heartier. They use butter instead of olive oil in traditional dishes. This would be frowned upon in other parts of Italy.
Risotto Milanese – saffron risotto finished with butter. The rice is grown between Torino and Milan.
Cotoletta alla Milanese – breaded and fried veal. Like schnitzel or chicken fried steak.
Ossobuco – meat with the bone and marrow, seared in butter.
Risotto al Salto – fried risotto cakes, crispy rice.
Panettone – Christmas cake. One of our favorite Italian things.
Columba – Easter cake, also delicious.
Milanese Salami – hands down the best salami.
Gorgonzola – cheese from the Lombardy region.
Grana Padano – aged for less time than Parmesan, milder and creamier.
Christmas Markets
Mainly in Piazza Duomo. Smaller than most Christmas markets but still impressive. They wrap around the back of the Duomo for a couple blocks.
We once saw a mob of Santas on roller skates coming down the middle of the market. Just hooting and hollering, all in full Santa costumes on skates. All of a sudden we hear this noise, we turn around, and there’s just this wave of Santas. That’s Milan.
Day Trips from Milan
Lake Como – An hour by train. Bellagio and Varenna are the postcard towns. You can do it in a day but it’s better as an overnight. The ferry between towns is half the point. The views from the water are what you came for.
Bergamo – 50 minutes by train. The upper town (Città Alta) is medieval, walkable, and feels completely separate from Milan. Funicular up to the top. Good for a half day when you want something quieter and more historic.
Dolomites – Further out, 3-4 hours by car or train to spots like Cortina. Better as a weekend trip if you’re skiing or hiking. We went during the Winter Olympics prep and it was worth the drive. Stunning mountains, completely different landscape.
Turin (Torino) – Where we lived. An hour by train. Chocolate, Egyptian Museum, royal palaces everywhere. Less touristy than Milan but just as interesting. Aperitivo was invented here. We’re biased but it’s one of our favorite cities.
Milan is enormous, very alive, with lots to investigate. Around every turn there are special restaurants and special shops. Then you have these huge, ginormous things like the Duomo where you could spend all day. But you need to plan those ahead.
You could base out of Milan and do Como, Bergamo, the Dolomiti, and Torino. The train connections make it easy.
It’s gotten a bad rap on some levels but we love it. It’s amazing.
Know Before You Go
If you’re building out your own Milan travel guide itinerary, here’s what to know before you book anything.
When to Visit: We went most often in winter for Christmas markets. Spring and fall are ideal for sightseeing. Summer is hot but aperitivo season makes it work.
How to Get Around: The metro actually works in Milan. M1 (red line), M2 (green line), and M3 (yellow line) will get you most places. Trams are slower but cover more ground. Walking between Centro Storico, Brera, and Navigli is easy. Save taxis for late nights or airport runs.
What to Book Ahead: Duomo roof tickets, Last Supper (30 days exactly – no exceptions).
What to Pack: Comfortable shoes. Modest clothing for churches. A scarf or wrap for covering shoulders. Milan is stylish but practical – you’ll be walking a lot.
Airports: Malpensa is the big international airport. Linate also has international flights. Both are easy to get into the city from. If you have an early flight, stay at an airport hotel – the transfers at 5am are not worth the stress.
Fashion Weeks: Fall and spring. Unlike anywhere else in the world. The city has even more energy than usual, but hotels are more expensive and harder to book.
Planning More Italian Travel
Want to keep exploring? Check out more of our Italy favorites:
Florence, Italy – Art, gelato and easy day trips through Tuscany.
Venice, Italy – Canals, cicchetti and the beauty of getting lost.
Lake Garda, Italy – Lakeside towns, swimming and slow travel by the water.